Great movies are made from stories like these. The english spy captured during Second World War, who survived five concentration camps and went on to become a fashion illustrator for Vogue. Brian Stonehouse’s admired works are now subject of a selling exhibition in London; a great chance to review this unique legend of the fashion world.

The Checked Dress, The Pink Dress, The Pink Suit, Vogue, circa 1955

Great movies are made from stories like these. The english spy captured during Second World War, who survived five concentration camps and went on to become a fashion illustrator for Vogue. Brian Stonehouse’s admired works are now subject of a selling exhibition in London; a great chance to review this unique legend of the fashion world.

When war began in 1939, Stonehouse’s fluent French made him the ideal candidate to join the British’s Special Operations Executive secret service. They decided to send him to France to sabotage the German efforts, posing as a French art student working for Vogue. For three and a half months Stonehouse transmitted information back to the British army thanks to a radio concealed in his artist’s box. That is, until he was caught by the Gestapo.

The next two-and-a-half years were spent in Nazi prisons and concentration camps, where he had to deal with torture, slave labour and even a death sentence at one point. They say his talent kept him alive throughout those painful years: he documented the conditions of the camps and drew pictures for his captors and their families.

After the war ended, the change was radical. He emigrated to New York, where he jump started his career as portrait painter for high-end families and celebrities. In 1952, Vogue hired him as fashion illustrator, where he shared the spotlight with other celebrated artists of the time like René Gruau and Carl “Eric” Erickson.

From there it was a golden era for Stonehouse until 1962, when Diana Vreeland took over Vogue and illustration was sadly fully replaced by photography. He continued working in the sector but the fashion illustration era was over. In 1981, he was commissioned to paint the Queen Mother and his work was somehow revived. Death came to Stonehouse in 1998, who suffered a heart attack.

At first glance, Stonehouse’s work might seem like that of other fashion illustrators of the era. But looking at it in context, with the horrors that Stonehouse’s witnessed and his amazing story of revival, makes his languid models and traces of couture dresses so much more.

1960

The Striped Tee-Shirt. Vogue, circa 1960. Abbott and Holder: £1750.

1955

The Fitted Jacket. Vogue, circa 1955. Abbott and Holder: £2500

The Tartan Sash

The Tartan Sash. Vogue, circa 1955. Abbott and Holder: £2250

a well dressed man

A Well Dresssed Man. Vogue, circa 1960. Abbott and Holder: £1750

The Evening Dress

The Evening Dress. Vogue, circa 1955. Abbott and Holder: £2250

the white gloves

The White Gloves. Vogue, circa 1955. Abbott and Holder: £2500

Two Studies of a Day Dress

Two Studies of a Day Dress. Vogue, circa 1960. Abbott and Holder: £1500

The Yellow Bathing Costume

The Yellow Bathing Costume. Vogue, circa 1955. Abbott and Holder: £2500

 

Brian Stonehouse MBE (1918 – 1998)’s selling exhibition will be at Abbott and Holder from November 14 to December 23